Advanced And Novelty Projects

PROJECT NUMBER 75

SEWING CASE

The two end pieces and the bottom of the sewing case are cut from ½ -inch pine. The smaller rectangular piece outlined on the opposite page is the pattern for the bottom of the sewing case. The end pieces are cut from the pattern in the center of the page.

The larger rectangular figure on the opposite page is the pattern for the two sides and top pieces. These four pieces may be cut from ¼-inch ply- wood. The top pieces are fastened by leather hinges to a length of 3/8-inch dowel which joins the two ends at the point indicated on the pattern.

The first step in assembling the sewing case is to nail the two ends to opposite edges of the bottom piece. Then the dowel is fastened in position at the top of the case with glue and one small nail in the center of each end.

The plywood sides may then be nailed in position.

Each hinge consists of two parts cut from the pattern below right. The longer piece passes under the dowel rod, and the shorter piece passes over the dowel as illustrated. The hinges are then tacked to the upper surface of the top pieces as illustrated in the drawing below.

The handle may be prepared from a strip of leather or plastic linoleum binding material obtainable at most hardware stores. A piece 17 inches long will be required. The handle is fastened in the center of each end with tacks.

After thorough sandpapering, the sewing case may be finished with a coat of oil stain, shellac, or varnish—as desired.
PROJECT NUMBER 76

PLANTER

This cradle planter is designed to accept an aluminum foil loaf cake pan as a lining. Such containers may be purchased inexpensively at most hardware or variety stores.

The two side pieces are cut from ¼-inch plywood. The pattern for the two ends is in the lower right-hand corner of the opposite page. The dotted base line indicates the size of the piece required for the foot of the cradle; the solid line represents the pattern for the head of the cradle. These ends and the "rockers," shown on the opposite page, and the center support, outlined at right of this page, are cut from ½-inch pine.

To assemble the planter, first nail the side pieces to the edges of the head and foot of the cradle as pictured in the drawing above. Then nail the two rockers to the ends of the center support in the position indicated by the dotted line on the pattern. This assembly is then inserted in the bottom of the cradle and positioned so that the edges of the rockers are opposite the points indicated by the dotted lines on the pattern for the side pieces. When properly positioned, the assembly is secured with a nail entering each end of the rockers. The cradle planter may be decorated as desired and given a finishing coat of shellac or clear varnish.

PROJECT NUMBER 77

MAGIC ST I TRICK

Here is a simple magic trick with which you can have a great deal of fun. It consists of two sticks 7½ inches long which appear to be joined by a single piece of string passing through a hole in one end of each stick. When one end of the string is pulled, the other becomes shorter, confirming that it is one continuous piece of string. Then you take a pair of scissors and cut the string as it passes between the two sticks. To everyone's amazement, you pull on one end of the string, and the other becomes shorter. This is the "string which cannot be cut."

Each stick actually consists of two lengths of half-round molding (¾ inch wide) held together by two bands of plastic electrical tape. Thus, four pieces of half-round are cut to the size of the pattern on the opposite page. Two of these pieces are prepared with holes in each end joined by a groove as indicated by the dotted lines on the pattern. The groove may be cut with a file, and should be sufficiently wide and deep to permit a piece of twine to pass through it freely. The remaining two lengths of half-round are prepared with grooves and a hole in one end only.

The four pieces are arranged as pictured at the top of the opposite page. A short piece of string (3 inches) is passed through the holes at the top of the two inside pieces, and secured by knotting either end. A second piece of string 26 inches long is then threaded through the remaining holes as illustrated in the drawing. The free ends are knotted, leaving about an inch which may be frayed to form a tassel. The two sticks are then joined with pieces of tape. The short piece of string must be replaced after each demonstration of the magic string trick.

PROJECT NUMBER 78

TOTEM POLE

The main body of the totem pole is cut from w-inch pine or other soft wood. The side view is traced on the wood and cut out, establishing the outline of the front surface of each figure. The notch between the "ears" of the top figure may then be cut with a coping saw or jigsaw. Then the sides of the totem pole should be shaped with a half-round wood file so that it resembles the pattern on the opposite page.

The wings, base of the totem pole, and the headdress of the center figure are cut from ¼-inch plywood or crate wood. The wings are nailed to the back of the bird in the position indicated on the pattern. The two blocks which form the headdress of the center figure are fastened in place with glue. The circular base is nailed to the bottom edge of the totem pole.

A hole is prepared in the face of the middle totem to receive a plug of ¼-inch dowel which forms the nose of the figure. This is fastened in place with glue.

The markings are added with a dark crayon, and each figure decorated with bright tempera colors. Then the totem pole is sprayed with a protective coating of shellac.

PROJECT NUMBER 79

CLIPPER SHIP

The hull of the clipper ship is shaped from a block of 1-inch stock. The bow, stern, and sides are tapered to resemble the three views of the hull on the opposite page. A crosscut handsaw and wood rasp are best suited for this purpose if power tools are not available.

Holes the size of an applicator stick are then prepared in the positions indicated for the jib boom and the three masts. The mainmast is a six-inch applicator stick; the other two masts are each ¾ inch shorter. One-half of an applicator stick is used for the jib boom.

The sails and flag may be cut from heavy white paper or any of the plastic yard goods now available at most variety stores. The figure within the pattern for each sail indicates the number required. Two small holes are cut in each sail so that they may be threaded on the masts. The three triangular jib sails are supported by threads running from the foremast to the boom as pictured in the drawing above. The pull of this thread is balanced by another thread joining the tops of the three masts to a small tack in the stern. The flag is fastened to the top of the mainmast with glue.

PROJECT NUMBER 80

TOMAHAWK

The head of the tomahawk is cut in two pieces: a block of ¾-inch pine, in which the hole for the handle is prepared (also a slot for the blade), and a piece of ¼-inch plywood which is set into this block and fastened with glue. The center hole for the handle should be drilled before the groove is cut in order to minimize the chance of splitting the block. Side and end views of this piece are provided in the upper lefthand corner of the opposite page.

The blade may be cut from 3/16-inch masonite or crate wood. The handle is a length of ½-inch dowel or bamboo.

The three parts of the tomahawk are fastened together with glue as illustrated in the drawing. The handle should extend through the top of the head for ¼ inch.

The design for this project was adapted from an Iroquois pipe tomahawk which had a hollow stem and bowl, fitting it for use as a peace pipe as well as a weapon.

PROJECT NUMBER 81

PERISCOPE

The periscope consists of two halves of an ordinary pocket mirror mounted in a box made of ¼-inch crate wood or plywood and ½-inch pine or other soft wood.

A small pocket mirror is cut in half with a file or glass cutter, forming two pieces approximately the size of the shaded pattern on the opposite page. If the two halves are significantly larger than this pattern, the dimensions of the periscope will have to be increased accordingly.

The two side pieces are cut from ½-inch stock and extend the full length of the periscope. They should be made twice the length of the pattern on the left side of the opposite page. Strips of ¼-inch plywood or crate wood are nailed to the inside surface at each end as illustrated below the pattern.

The front and back pieces of the periscope are cut from ¼-inch plywood or crate wood and are placed so that a window is formed at each end as illustrated above. These pieces are cut to twice the length of the pattern in the center of the opposite page. The ends are also cut from ¼-inch stock.

To assemble the periscope, nail the back (or front) piece to the edges of the side pieces so that the strips of wood lie exactly opposite each other. The three pieces should be flush at one end as in the drawing above, forming a window at the other end of the periscope. The mirrors are then cemented in position, at a 45° angle in parallel planes, with the silvered surface facing the window as in the illustration. The remaining side and end pieces may then be fastened in place with nails.

PROJECT NUMBER 82

WEATHER VANE

The weather vane consists of a plywood rooster and an arrow mounted on a center block which turns about a pivot nail in the supporting stick.

The center block is pictured in the upper righthand corner of the opposite page. A groove is prepared in the top of the block for the plywood figure. The shaft of the arrow passes through a ¼-inch hole in the center of the block. A second hole, slightly larger than the pivot nail, is drilled in the bottom of the block so that the weather vane will swing freely.

The rooster figure is cut from ¼-inch plywood. The markings are then outlined with paint or crayon, and the figure is inserted in the groove provided for it and fastened with glue.

The head and tail of the arrow are cut from ½-inch pine or other soft wood, and ¼-inch holes are drilled in the positions indicated on the pattern. The shaft of the arrow is a piece of ¼-inch dowel twelve to eighteen inches in length. The dowel shaft is passed through the hole in the center block, and the two ends of the arrow are fastened on with glue. The position of the shaft in the center block may then be adjusted until the proper balance point is reached.

The supporting stick is a piece of ¾-inch stock cut to any desired length. A pivot nail is driven into one end, and the head of the nail is removed before the center block is set in position.

PROJECT NUMBER 83

RACING YACHT

The hull of the racing yacht is cut from a block of 1-inch stock. The bow, stern, and sides are tapered to resemble the three views of the hull on the opposite page. A hole the size of an applicator stick is prepared in the position indicated on the pattern.

The two sails are cut from a sheet of heavy paper or any of the plastic yard goods now available at most variety stores. Holes for the mast and spar are cut in the mainsail so that it may be fastened in place as illustrated in the drawing above. The jib sail is held by two threads; one running from the Bow to the top of the mast and then to the stern, and the other fastening the base of the sail to the deck as pictured above.

PROJECT NUMBER 84

MARIONETTE

The body of the marionette is a block of ¾-inch pine with a hole prepared in one end for a ¼-inch dowel. The head is made from a piece of 1-inch dowel or broomstick. Holes are drilled in the side and in one end of the head piece to receive lengths of ¼-inch dowel which will become the nose and neck of the puppet.

The puppet's feet are small blocks of ½-inch stock with a ¼-inch hole prepared in one end. The legs and arms are made from short lengths of ¼-inch dowel which are joined together and to the body by means of linked screw eyes.

The controls for the marionette are made from three lengths of ¼-inch plywood or crate wood cut to the size of the pattern. Two of these pieces are fastened together in the center to form the cross from which lines will run to the head, back, and arms of the puppet. The third piece remains free of the other two and controls the legs.

PROJECT NUMBER 85

HELICOPTER

The body of the helicopter is made from three pieces of ½-inch pine fastened together. The center piece extends to form the tail of the helicopter, as shown in the drawing at the right.

The propellers may be cut from any thin wood available. Pop-sicle sticks are excellent for this purpose. A hole is prepared in one end of each of the three rotor blades. These are supported by a small piece of ½- or ¾-inch dowel and fastened to the top of the helicopter in the position indicated in the drawing. The small side propeller is cut to size and nailed through a hole in the center to the side of the tail.

The pontoons may be prepared from ¼-inch plywood or crate wood, and are nailed to the sides of the helicopter in the positions indicated.

PROJECT NUMBER 86

BASKET

The bottom of the basket is a hexagon cut from ½-inch or ¾-inch pine or other soft wood.

The six sides of the basket are made from the pattern on the lower half of the opposite page, and may be cut from ¼-inch plywood, crate wood, or masonite. Two holes are prepared in each of the six side pieces so that they may be laced together at the top of the basket.

A 30-inch length of leather strip or shoelace is required to support the sidepieces at the top of the basket.

To assemble the basket, start two nails into the bottom of each of the sidepieces in the position indicated on the pattern. Each side is then lined up with one face of the hexagonal base piece and the nails are driven into the wood until the heads are protruding approximately 1/8 inch from the surface of the wood. When all six sides have been attached in this way, the lace is threaded through the holes at the top of each piece, drawn together, and tied securely. Then the basket may be turned upside down and the nails pounded into the wood the remaining distance.

The basket may be finished with a coat of shellac, varnish, oil stain, or paint.

PROJECT NUMBER 87

SUBMARINE

This model submarine is an excellent group exercise in the use of an electric sander. If an electric sander is not available, a coarse wood rasp may be used to shape the component pieces.

The hull of the submarine is cut from ¾- or 1-inch pine or other soft wood. The bow and stern are then tapered as indicated in the top view of the hull. The end view in the upper righthand corner of the opposite page illustrates the proper shaping of the keel and rounding of the deck.

The superstructure is a block of ¾-inch pine which has been rounded off at the corners to resemble the pattern. It may be nailed or glued to the deck in the position indicated on the pattern.

The conning tower and other accessory parts may be fabricated from any convenient materials, such as bits of dowel, match sticks, or finishing nails.

The completed submarine may be painted with aluminum paint for added realism.

PROJECT NUMBER 88

MEXICAN BELT

This Mexican belt is made by fastening blocks of ¼-inch plywood together with strips of leather or shoelaces. To determine the number of blocks required, divide the distance around your waist in inches by 2½.

The blocks are cut to the size of the pattern on the opposite page, and holes are drilled in each corner as illustrated. Each block should be sandpapered thoroughly before the design is applied. These designs may be made with crayon, tempera colors, India ink, or wood burner. Before assembling the belt, each block should be given a coat of clear varnish or shellac.

The belt may be fastened by simply tying the ends of the lace, or a wire clasp can be fashioned from a coat hanger, as illustrated on the next page. When the lacing has been adjusted so that the belt is the proper size, the blocks should be spaced evenly and fastened with a small tack holding the lace to the center of each block.

PROJECT NUMBER 89

HAND PEPPET

The body of the puppet is cut from ½-inch pine or other soft wood. The outlines of his clothing may be applied directly to the wood surface with paint or crayon, or they may be cut from paper, cloth, or leather scraps, and glued in place.

The puppet's arms are cut from ¼-inch plywood and are fastened to the back of the body with a small wood screw through the hole at the base of each arm.

The two arms are joined at the bottom by a strip of wide rubber band which is tacked to the lower edge of each arm as illustrated. A small screw eye is inserted at the center of the puppet, just below the rubber band. A piece of string passes from the small hole in the upper inside corner of each arm through the screw eye to form a loop. The puppet's arms are moved by pulling this loop with one finger.

PROJECT NUMBER 90

RECORD STAND

This record stand can be built from a few scraps of ¾-inch pine and nine wire coat hangers.

The two ends and sides of the base are cut from ¾-inch pine. Eighteen holes ½ inch deep should be prepared in the top edge of each side piece. The diameter of the holes should be such that the pieces of coat hanger wire will fit snugly. Coat hangers of uniform thickness should be selected. Two small holes prepared in the ends of each side piece as illustrated on the pattern will make it easier to assemble the base. The four base pieces should be sandpapered thoroughly.

The nine coat hangers are then cut in half with wire cutters, and contoured to match the pattern on the opposite page. A total of eighteen record supports are formed in this manner. The base is fastened together with nails and wood glue, and the wire supports are inserted in the holes provided for them.

The completed record stand may be finished with a coat of oil stain, shellac, or varnish.

PROJECT NUMBER 91

RUBBER BAND PUZZLE

The first step in making a rubber band puzzle is to prepare two holes in a block of wood cut to the size illustrated. One hole should be 1/8 inch in diameter and extend approximately one inch into the block. The other hole is prepared from the opposite end of the block and penetrates 2½ inches into the wood. This hole is 3/8 inch in diameter.

The end of the block in which the smaller hole was drilled is then pointed on all four sides to form a pyramid.

Then, the top of the block is cut oft as indicated by the dotted line on the illustration. A 2¾-inch length of 1/8-inch dowel is cut, and notched on one end. The opposite end is inserted in the hole in the top of the puzzle so that it reaches the tip of the pyramid. The dowel may be secured with glue.

A rubber band is inserted in the hole in the base and held in place with a small cork or plug of 3/8-inch dowel.

This is actually a trick as well as a puzzle, for the rubber band is placed in such a position that it is impossible to engage the rubber band in the notch. The operator pretends to search for the rubber band with the notched dowel, holding it by placing the thumb and forefinger on opposing sides of the pyramid. Then he withdraws the dowel plunger slightly from the base block and causes it to snap back into place by pinching the tip of the pyramid so that the plunger is forced from between his fingers. The uninformed onlooker believes that the operator has engaged the loop of the rubber band and that this is what causes the plunger to snap back into place. However, when he tries to engage the loop so that the plunger will snap into place, he meets with failure.

PROJECT NUMBER 92

BACK SCRATCHER

The back scratcher consists of two blocks of ½-inch pine joined together to resemble a hand, mounted on a length of ¼-inch dowel.

The drawings on the opposite page, above and to the side of the pattern for the back of the hand, are the end and side views respectively of this piece. A hole is prepared in the base of the "wrist" for the dowel rod. The front edge of the hand should be beveled slightly so that the fingers will be set at an angle as indicated in the drawing above. The inside surface of the finger block is also beveled as indicated in the end view to the right of the pattern. The front edge of this piece may be notched with a wood file to represent knuckles.

The two pieces of the hand should be sanded thoroughly, and the markings applied with a dark crayon or wood burner. Then, the fingers may be fastened to the hand with wood glue as illustrated in the drawings at the bottom of the opposite page. Finally, the hand is mounted on the dowel and fastened in place with glue.

The back scratcher should be given a coat of shellac or clear varnish.

PROJECT NUMBER 93

INDIAN TEPEE

The base of the tepee is cut from a piece of ¼-inch plywood or crate wood. The holes for the struts should be drilled at an angle of approximately 65 degrees so that the sticks will cross in the center.

Six 6-inch applicator sticks may be used as struts, or they may be cut from a length of 1/8-inch dowel. The six struts are fastened at the top with a rubber band after being glued in the holes in the base.

The covering for the tepee may be cut from any convenient material, such as thin leather, canvas, or any of the plastic materials which are found in any variety store. Holes are punched in the positions indicated, and the covering is decorated with Indian designs before it is fastened to the framework. Strips of leather or string may be used to lace the covering together at the front of the tepee. The smoke flaps are then folded back as illustrated in the drawing above.

PROJECT NUMBER 94

REFRESHMENT TRAY

The pattern on the opposite page is the outline for one half of the refreshment tray. A piece of plywood is cut to the size of two of these patterns joined at the dotted line. Around the outside, 1/8-inch holes are drilled in the positions indicated. The fish figure may be traced in the center of the tray.

A piece of 3/8-inch cotton rope 4½ feet long is unraveled for a distance of 3 inches at each end and spliced as illustrated to form a continuous ring. The rope is then laced to the edge of the tray with heavy twine, using a "whip" stitch. At the extreme ends of the tray, the rope is left free to form loops which will serve as handles. Thus the two stitches at each end of the tray will not engage the rope.

The fish design may then be applied with crayon, paint, or a wood burner, and the entire tray is given at least one coat of clear varnish or shellac.

PROJECT NUMBER 95

BAMBOO WHISTLE

A six-inch length of bamboo is cut and sanded carefully. It should be at least ¾ inches in diameter. At a point one inch from the end which is to serve as the mouthpiece, a straight cut 1/8 inch deep is made. A second cut is started at a point ½ to ¾ of an inch behind the first one. This cut is directed at an angle so that it ends at the deepest part of the first cut, forming a notch in the bamboo as shown in the second drawing. This should form a small rectangular opening in the top of the bamboo whistle. This opening should begin at the base of the vertical cut and extend not more than 1/8 of an inch toward the far end of the whistle. The opening may be enlarged by deepening the notch with a wood file.

A plug of soft wood or cork is then shaped so that it fits snugly in the mouthpiece as far as the vertical cut of the notch. The side of the plug which approximates the top of the whistle is then flattened with a file so that a 1/16-inch space is formed between the plug and the bamboo. At this point, it is best to test the whistle by closing the other end with the finger and blowing gently. The tone may be improved by adjusting the depth of the notch and the mouth opening.

Finally, a plug of soft wood or cork is prepared to seal the end of the whistle as shown in the drawing at the bottom of the opposite page.

PROJECT NUMBER 96

MAGIC SPINNER

The magic spinner is made from two lengths of ¼-inch dowel and a tongue blade or other thin strip of wood.

A series of small notches is cut along one side of the longer dowel. A wood file may be used for this purpose. The propeller is then cut out and fastened to the top of the dowel with a small wire nail or straight pin. The hole in the center of the propeller must be large enough to permit it to spin freely.

The spinner is held in the left hand, and the dowel stick is held in the right hand and rubbed back and forth over the notches, as illustrated above, so that the tip of the right thumb slides along the side of the notched dowel. This will spin the propeller in a counterclockwise direction so long as the thumb is in contact with the notched dowel. To make the propeller stop and turn in the other direction, change the position of the right hand, so that the index finger rides along the opposite side of the notched dowel. This will cause the propeller to spin in a clockwise direction.

PROJECT NUMBER 97

SHOW-SHINE KIT

The handle, heel block, ends, and bottom of the shoe-shine kit are cut from pieces of ½-inch pine. The dotted line within the large rectangle on the opposite page is the pattern for the bottom piece. The heel block should be cut to the size of the rectangular pattern on the handle. The sides are cut from a piece of ¼-inch plywood, shaped as indicated in the pattern represented by the solid line enclosing the pattern for the bottom.

As the first step in the assembly of the shoe-shine kit, the two end pieces, the pattern for which is on this page, are nailed to opposite edges of the bottom. The heel block is then fastened to the handle as illustrated, and the handle is nailed across the top edges of the two ends.

The plywood sides are then fastened in position with nails and wood glue. The completed project may be finished with a coat of oil stain, shellac, or varnish.

PROJECT NUMBER 98

NOVELTY ARROW

The ideal materials for this novelty project consist of a broken arrow and a length of coat hanger wire. However, if a real arrow is not available, a reasonable facsimile may be produced from two lengths of ¼-inch dowel and a few feathers.

A length of thin coat hanger wire is shaped to the pattern. This loop may then be adjusted to fit the head so that it will stay in place.

The dowels are then cut to the proper length, and holes large enough to accommodate the wire are drilled in one end of each. A groove is cut in the other end of the longer piece of dowel, and the tip of the arrow is pointed slightly.

Three feathers are cut to correspond to the pattern on the opposite page and are cemented to the shaft of the arrow at the positions indicated on the pattern. If feathers cannot be obtained, pieces of cardboard may be colored and used as a substitute. The shaded tabs are then bent so that one lies on each side of the "feather." This will hold the feather out from the shaft when the tabs are cemented to the arrow.

PROJECT NUMBER 99

KACHINA DOLL

The Kachina doll is shaped from a block of 1-inch pine or other soft wood. The front and side views provided on the opposite page are traced on the corresponding surfaces of the block, and the wood is trimmed to the outline of the doll with a sharp wood rasp. A handsaw will be required to cut out the area between the arms and legs of the Kachina doll. A hole is prepared in the center of the face for the ¼-inch dowel peg which forms the nose.

When the doll has been properly shaped and sandpapered it is mounted on a base piece cut from ¼-inch plywood or ½-inch pine. The figure is placed on the area indicated by the shaded spaces on the pattern and fastened with nails from the underside of the base piece.

The headdress can be made from a few feathers, or tissue paper may be used. The tissue should be cut into fine strands with a pair of scissors. The headdress is fastened to the top of the doll's head with glue.

Paint the Kachina doll with bright tempera colors, followed by a spray coating of shellac.

PROJECT NUMBER 100

SPANISH MARACAS

These Spanish maracas are made from inverted plastic cups such as the containers in which certain frozen foods are sold. Those made of opaque styrene seem to give a better tone than the more flexible type.

A disk of 3/4-inch pine is cut to conform to the inside diameter of the cup. The piece is tapered slightly so that it will fit securely in the opening of the cup. A length of ¾-inch dowel cut to the size of the pattern on the opposite page is fastened to the underside of the disk with a nail entering from the top surface.

The rattle is produced by several B-B shot or small tacks, which are placed inside the cup before the disk-and-handle assembly is inserted. The edge of the wood disk is coated with airplane glue or household cement, and the assembly is forced into the open end of the cup.

When dry, the maracas may be decorated with a felt marking pencil or tempera paint.

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