Simple Nailing Projects

PROJECT NUMBER 22 DOLL HOUSE FURNITURE

The younger girls seem to have a great deal of fun assembling doll house furniture from pre-cut blocks.

Several l½-inch blocks of l¼-inch stock and some assorted pieces of masonite are all that is required to outfit a doll house with chairs, tables, beds, sofas, and other articles of furniture which the children can design.

Small wire nails may be used to fasten the various creations together. Sheets of bright-colored contact paper obtainable at most variety stores may be used to "upholster" the furniture.

PROJECT NUMBER 23

ROCKET SHIP

The body of the rocket ship is cut from a block of ¾-inch stock. A slot is prepared in the tail section of the ship for the wings.

The markings may be applied with a dark crayon or paint.
The wings of the rocket ship are cut from ¼-inch plywood and are fastened in the prepared slot by a nail passing through the underside of the body.

The rocket ship may be decorated with tempera colors or aluminum paint.

PROJECT NUMBER 24

RING - A -PEG GAME

This game may be made from a block of ½-inch or ¾-inch pine or other soft wood, a piece of ¾-inch dowel, and three 10-inch lengths of heavy rope or clothesline.

The dowel peg is fastened to the base block by a nail entering the peg from the underside of the block.

The three lengths of rope are fashioned into rings and the ends are fastened together with adhesive tape.

PROJECT NUMBER 25

TOY FIELD RADIO

This toy field radio is a very simple and enjoyable project because it gives the child an opportunity to exercise his ingenuity by devising his own dials, buttons, switches, and the like to operate the radio.

The "radio" is simply a block of wood of any convenient size to which various odds and ends have been attached. The aerial is made from a piece of coat hanger or other heavy wire which is stapled to one side of the block. Bottle caps or jar tops may be used to represent ear- and mouthpieces. A strip of leather or plastic linoleum binding material may be nailed to the top and bottom edges of the block for a hand strap. Small bottle caps, upholstery tacks, or buttons may then be added to represent the controls.

PROJECT NUMBER 26

COAT HANGER

The bird figure is cut from ¼-inch plywood, and the markings are outlined with a dark crayon or tempera paint.

The hook may be fashioned from a length of wire coat hanger or other heavy wire, and is fastened to the back of the plywood figure with wire staples.

The completed coat hanger should be given a protective coat of shellac or clear varnish.

PROJECT NUMBER 27

FISH SCALER

The fish is cut from a piece of ¼- or 3/8-inch plywood, and the markings are applied with paint or crayon, or a wood burner.

The cork disks are removed from four pop-bottle caps which will serve as the "teeth" of the fish sealer. The caps are positioned on the undersurface of the fish figure as indicated on the pattern. They are fastened in place with wire nails started from the top surface of the fish so that the nails may be cleated over inside each bottle cap.

When it is completed, the fish sealer should be given a protective coat of shellac or clear varnish.

PROJECT NUMBER 28

AUTOGRAPH BOOK

The cover of the autograph book is a divided piece of ¼-inch plywood. The small strip is provided with two holes spaced two inches apart. The title "Autographs" may be applied with a wood burner or outlined with paint or a dark crayon. A leather hinge, with holes punched in the positions marked on the pattern, joins the two parts of the cover together. Glue or small tacks may be used to fasten the hinge in place.

The back of the autograph book is a single piece of ¼-inch plywood with holes corresponding to those in the front cover. Both front and back cover should be given a coat of shellac or clear varnish and allowed to dry thoroughly before the book is assembled.

This autograph book is designed for a small tablet of note paper which may be purchased in any variety store. The "Rainbow" tablets are particularly suited to this purpose. Two holes are punched at the top of the tablet spaced two inches apart.

The book is fastened together with a strip of leather or a length of cord which is threaded through the two holes in the front cover, tablet, and back cover, and then tied at the back.

PROJECT NUMBER 29

FLOWER POT HOLDER

The back of the flower pot holder is cut from a piece of ½-inch white pine or 3/8-inch plywood. The flower design may be outlined with dark ink or crayon and painted with bright tempera colors, then finished with a protective coat of shellac or clear varnish. Holes are drilled in each side at the points indicated on the pattern.

The wire loop which supports the flower pot is fashioned from a length of heavy coat hanger wire. Bend the wire into a "U" shape as illustrated in the drawing, taking care that the sides of the "U" are long enough to extend through the back board at least ¾ inch when the flower pot is in position. Then mark each side of the loop at the point where it extends through the wood, remove the flower pot, and make two right angle bends as indicated on the drawing. The ends of the wire loop are then fastened to the wood with staples as shown in the illustration at the bottom of the opposite page.

A hole may be prepared in the center of the upper flower so that the flowerpot holder can be hung on a wall.

PROJECT NUMBER 30

CRUMBER SET

The crumb tray is cut from a piece of ½-inch pine or other soft wood. The straight edge may be beveled slightly with a plane or wood file. A 17-inch strip of plastic linoleum binding material ¾ inch wide is tacked to the sides and back edge of the tray as illustrated in the drawing. Linoleum binding material can be purchased at most hardware stores and is available in a variety of colors.

The scraper is fashioned from a piece of ¼-inch plywood. The bottom edge may be beveled to improve its efficiency in collecting crumbs. A hole is prepared in the end of the handle as illustrated.

The crumber set is then decorated as desired and given a finishing coat of shellac or clear varnish.

PROJECT NUMBER 31 GARDEN STICK

The rabbit figure is cut from a piece of ¼- or 3/8-inch plywood. The markings are outlined with dark crayon, ink, or paint, and the figure is given a protective coat of shellac or clear varnish.

The stake is a piece of ½-inch or ¾-inch stock, cut to any desired length.

The plywood figure is attached to the stake with glue and nails.

PROJECT NUMBER 32

DOOR STOP

The doorstop consists of a plywood bear figure fastened to the end of a triangular block of wood.

The figure should be traced on a piece of ½- or ¼-inch plywood and cut out, leaving the area between the bear's feet as a base to give added stability to the door stop.

The wedge which fitsunder the door is a triangular block of 3/4- or 1-inch pine or other soft wood. It is fastened to the plywood figure with nails from the front of the doorstop. The two pieces should be assembled so that the figure stands perpendicular to the floor (the hypotenuse of the triangular block facing upward).

The outline of the bear figure may be emphasized with crayon, and the doorstop given a protective coat of shellac or clear varnish.

PROJECT NUMBER 33 BEACH SANDALS

The beach sandals are cut from ½-inch or ¾-inch white pine or other soft wood. In order to obtain an accurate fit, it is best to use the sole of a tennis shoe in place of the pattern on the opposite page.

The strap may be cut from a piece of thin leather or canvas. The foot should be placed on the wooden sandal, and the strap positioned with the concave edge toward the toe. When the proper length and placement of the strap has been determined, the strip is trimmed to size and fastened to the edges of the sandal with tacks.

PROJECT NUMBER 34 BOOK ENDS

The dog figures are cut from ¾-inch plywood or pine. After they are sandpapered, the markings are applied with India ink, paint, or dark crayon.

The base pieces are made by tracing the pattern at the right on ¼-inch plywood, maso-nite, or crate wood. When these pieces have been cut out and sanded, they are fastened to the bottom edge of the dog figures with both wood glue and 1-inch wire nails.

The book ends may be given a protective coat of shellac or clear varnish, or they may be finished with oil stain.

PROJECT NUMBER 35

NOTE PAD HOLDER

This note pad holder is designed to take the small-size tablets available in packets of five at most variety stores.

The base of the note pad holder with its cat figure is cut from ½-inch pine or other soft wood. The cat figure is outlined with dark crayon or wood burner.

The cat's feet and the four blocks on which the note pad holder rests are cut from ¼-inch plywood. A strip of thin leather cut to the size of the pattern at the bottom of the page holds the note pad and pencil in place.

The first step in assembling the note pad holder is to fasten the leather strip in place with small tacks. The correct position of this strip is illustrated in the drawing. The strip should be placed so that it forms a band across the top surface of the wood that will permit the cardboard backing of the note pad to be inserted, as illustrated in the drawing above. The leather strip then passes around to the underside of the base to form a loop which will hold the pencil.

The plywood feet and supporting blocks are then nailed to the base as illustrated in the drawing above. The completed note pad holder may be given a coat of shellac or clear varnish.

PROJECT NUMBER 36

CAR OF THE FUTURE

The body and cockpit of this car of the future may be cut from w-inch pine or other soft wood. Grooves are cut on either side of the nose, and a slot for the tail fin is prepared at the back of the body piece as indicated on the pattern.

The tail fin and wheels are cut from ¼-inch crate wood or plywood. The tail piece is fastened in place with glue, and the wheels are nailed to the sides of the body in the positions indicated on the pattern.

PROJECT NO 37

RIVER BOAT

Except for the smokestack and paddle wheel, the river boat is cut entirely from ¾-inch pine or other soft wood.

The superstructure consists of two matched blocks rounded at one end as indicated in the pattern in the upper righthand corner of the opposite page. The pilot house and smokestack are fastened in place by nails penetrating from the underside of the top block of the superstructure. Then the two parts of the superstructure may be nailed together and fastened to the hull in the position indicated by the dotted line on the pattern. Markings to represent railings may then be added to the sides of the blocks.

The paddle wheel is a piece of ¼-inch plywood or crate wood which has been notched at the center so that the heavy rubber band shown in the illustration above will remain in place. The rubber band is placed across the stern of the river boat so that it engages the notches provided for it.

To operate the river boat, place the paddle wheel between the sides of the rubber band and wind in the direction of the stern. When the rubber band has been wound tight, place the boat in the water and release the paddle wheel.

PROJECT NUMBER 38

PENCIL TREE

The pencil tree is a good jigsaw exercise, and when completed will hold a dozen pencils if cut by the pattern on the opposite page.

The base is a block of 3/4-inch pine or other soft wood cut to the size of the pattern.

The sides of the pencil tree are cut from ¼-inch plywood or masonite and are nailed to opposite edges of the base.

The pencil tree may be colored green with oil stain or paint, or it may be given a natural finish with shellac or varnish.

PROJECT NUMBER 39

WALL LETTER HOLDER

This wall letter holder consists of a piece of molding in which five slots have been prepared, supported on a diamond-shape plywood backing.

The backing is cut from ¼-inch plywood, and is provided with a hole at the top so that the letter holder may be hung up.

The molding selected for the block should be at least one inch thick in the center so that the slots may be cut to the proper depth. These cuts should be made with a crosscut handsaw at approximately a 45° angle.

The block is positioned in the area indicated by the dotted line on the pattern and held in place with a nail at each end.

The letter holder may be finished with shellac, varnish, or oil stain.

PROJECT NUMBER 40

THUNDERBIRD PLAQUE

The figure of the thunderbird is cut from a piece of ½-inch pine or other soft wood. After careful sandpapering, the markings may be added with a dark crayon or wood burner. The designs on the neck, breast, and wings of the bird should be colored with bright tempera paints.

The back of the plaque is made from ¼-inch plywood. This piece should be stained or painted a contrasting color to accentuate the outline and coloring of the thunderbird. The finished plaque should be sprayed with shellac or clear varnish.

PROJECT NUMBER 41

DISH BRACKET

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This simple dish bracket is designed to support any piece of china or crockery which one might wish to display. The back is cut from ½-inch pine. The two "feet" are pieces of ¼-inch plywood cut to the shape of the pattern on the opposite page.

After being smoothed with sandpaper the plywood feet are nailed to the sides of the back piece as illustrated in the drawing above.

The completed dish bracket may be stained or painted to match the shelf or table on which it is to be placed, or designs may be applied as desired.

The outer rim of the dish is placed in the notches at the base of the dish bracket, and the bottom of the dish rests against the back piece.

PROJECT NUMBER 42

PIXIE DOLL

The body of the pixie doll is a block of w-inch white pine which has been pointed at one end as shown on the pattern. Holes are drilled in the block, at the points indicated on the narrow side view of the block on opposite page, for the lengths of rope which form the arms and legs of the doll. The edges may be notched with a rat-tail file at the points indicated by the dotted line to represent the neck. The pixie's face and jacket may be drawn on the block with a dark crayon, India ink, or paint. A bright upholstery tack might be used for the button.

The arms and legs are lengths of ¼- or 3/8-inch clothesline which are threaded through the holes and fastened in place with a small nail from the back of the doll. The feet are blocks of ½-inch stock with holes prepared in one end. These may be fastened on with a small nail or by tying a knot below each foot.

The brim of the pixie's hat is cut from a piece of leather, felt, or cardboard and glued or tacked in place by means of the little tabs which will lie on the two edges of the block. It is best not to use any finishing coat on this project.

PROJECT NUMBER 43

ROPE PRINTING STAMP

The rope printing stamp is made by fastening a piece of clothesline to a wooden block with wire staples. The clothesline may be formed into an initial (which must be reversed if it is to print correctly) or any simple design, such as the one pictured in the illustration.

A handle is cut from a length of 1-inch dowel, and the block is fastened to the handle with a long finishing nail through the center.

A thin cellulose sponge or a sheet of foam rubber saturated with tempera paint provides a suitable stamp pad. The rope printing stamp may be used to decorate paper place mats, design original wrapping paper, or print Christmas cards.

PROJECT NUMBER 44

MATCH BOX HOLDER

Before starting the matchbox holder, it is best to check the size of the matchbox to be used with the patterns on the opposite page. The drawings in the upper righthand corner represent side and end views of the block which holds the matchbox.

This block must be shaped so that the outer sleeve of the matchbox fits snugly over it. The pattern should be altered to fit the matchbox to be used.

The penguin is cut from a piece of ¼-inch plywood and outlined with crayon or tempera paint. The base is a piece of ½-inch or ¾-inch pine or other soft wood.

The penguin is fastened to the back edge of the base piece with nails and glue, and then the block is glued to the center of the base in the position indicated. The completed project should then be given a coat of shellac or clear varnish.

It is best to tear off the end of the matchbox, as in the illustration above, after placing the matchbox on the holder.

PROJECT NUMBER 45

DIAL BASEBALL

The game board for dial baseball is a piece of ½-inch pine or plywood. Holes ¼ inch deep may be prepared in each of the four circles representing the bases, so that the "men on base" may be recorded by placing a marble in the appropriate hole. As an alternative, buttons or small coins may be used to cover the circles, eliminating the necessity for drilling holes. The markings and lettering may be applied with a dark crayon, felt marking pencil, or wood burner.

A popsicle stick or other thin strip of wood is sharpened at one end to form the pointer. A small hole is prepared in the center, and the pointer is mounted on a metal washer or nut in the middle of the game board. The hole must be large enough to permit the pointer to spin freely. An upholstery tack may be used to fasten the pointer in place.

The game is played according to regular baseball rules. Each player spins the dial and moves his "men" around the bases until his team has made three outs.

PROJECT NUMBER 46

MARBLE GOLF GAME

This marble golf game con-sists of a square block of ¾-inch stock with one side beveled and the other three sides enclosed.

The game board is beveled to resemble the side view below the pattern on the opposite page. Nine holes ½ inch in diameter and ¼ inch deep are drilled in the top surface of the board. Each hole is labeled with a number representing the points scored by rolling a marble into that particular hole.

The sides and back of the game board may be cut from heavy cardboard or ¼-inch plywood. When tracing the two side pieces, follow the dotted line on the right end of the pattern at the bottom of the page. The side pieces and back are fastened to the edges of the game board with thumbtacks or wire nails, so that the completed game resembles the drawing above.

Marbles are rolled up the "ramp" formed by the beveled edge of the game board. The player to score the most points with ten marbles wins the game.

The game may be modified by changing the numbers below the holes to values from 2 to 10. Then the winner would be the player to score the fewest "strokes" out of ten marbles, adding one stroke for each additional roll required to place a given marble in one of the holes.

PROJECT NUMBER 47

COMPASS

The face of the compass may be cut from a piece of ¼-inch plywood, ½-inch plywood, or ½-inch pine. The markings for the dial may then be applied with dark crayon or wood burner.

The needle for the compass consists of two l½-inch darning needles which have been magnetized by drawing a magnet over them in one direction only (from the eye toward the point). The two darning needles are then inserted in opposite sides of a piece of cork ¼ inch high and ½ inch in diameter as illustrated.

The needle assembly is suspended by means of the lower portion of a leather rivet, which is inserted in the bottom of the cork disk as illustrated in the drawing. Leather rivets of this type can be purchased inexpensively at most hardware or variety stores. A small nail which will not bind when inserted in the rivet is placed in the center of the compass dial, and the head is clipped off so that the nail extends approximately 3/8 inch above the wood surface. The protruding end of the nail should be rounded with a metal file to permit the needle assembly to swing freely.

After the wood block has been given a finishing coat of shellac or clear varnish and has dried thoroughly, the needle may be mounted on the nail. The compass needle will point North. Then carefully turn the block until the needle is in line with the point on the compass dial marked "N."

PROJECT NUMBER 48

BOOK RACK

The solid line which borders this page is the pattern for the large diagonal piece of the book rack. It is supported by a brace cut from the large rectangular pattern on the opposite page. The large diagonal piece may be cut from ½-inch pine. A scrap of ¾-inch pine or other soft wood is recommended for the brace. Thin plywood may be used for the ledge at the base of the book rack.

The supporting block may be beveled along one edge as illustrated by the drawing at left center of opposite page, so that it will form a more acute angle with the book rest when the project is assembled. This step may be omitted and the block simply placed at right angles to the diagonal piece. It is recommended that thin wood screws (No. 3 flat head) and wood glue be used to fasten these two pieces together to give the book rack additional strength.

Finally, the bottom ledge is nailed in position, and assembly of the book rack is complete. The book rack should be sandpapered thoroughly and finished with a coat of shellac or varnish.

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