Simple Cut-Out Projects

PROJECT NUMBER 1

LETTER OPENER

The pattern selected for the letter opener should be traced on a piece of 1/8-inch plywood or masonite. If heavier stock is used, it will be necessary to bevel the tip and edges of the blade.

After the letter opener is cut out, it should be sanded thoroughly and the markings applied with a dark crayon or paint. Then the opener may be given a coat of shellac or clear varnish.
 
PROJECT NUMBER 2

SQUARE PUZZLE

The square puzzle is composed of four pieces of ¼-inch or 1/8-inch plywood cut to the size of the pattern at the top of the page.

The cuts should be made as straight as possible so that the irregularities will give no clue to solving the puzzle.

One solution to the puzzle is shown above but there is another way to form a square from the four pieces of the puzzle. See if you can find it.

PROJECT NUMBER 3 WOBBLY BLOCK BUZZLE

The "wobbly block" is simply a rectangular piece of 3/4-inch pine or other soft wood which has been sectioned in two planes. All cuts are irregular, but they should remain roughly parallel to the long axis of the block to produce nine pieces of approximately equal size.

The two outside cuts are made first, forming a block with two opposite flat sides and two opposite irregular sides. The block is then divided into three approximately equal parts by making two irregular cuts from end to end. These pieces are then assembled, clamped together, and the block is sectioned by two cuts in the opposite plane to give nine irregular pieces of the puzzle.

PROJECT NUMBER 4

ADDRESS SIGN

The address sign is cut from ½- or ¾-inch pine or other soft wood. The pattern at the upper left provides the outline for the bloodhound figure and one half of the signboard. After tracing the outline as it appears, turn the paper around so, that the traced dotted line lies directly over the dotted line on the pattern and complete the missing half of the signboard.

Cut only around the outside line of the dog, leaving the area beneath the tail and between the legs to give added strength to the figure.

The house number and the outline of the bloodhound may be added with dark paint, and the entire sign given two coats of clear varnish; or, contrasting enamels may be used to paint the address sign.

PROJECT NUMBER 5 MARBLE CROQUET

Marble croquet can be played by using this game board and three marbles. The game board is cut from ¼-inch plywood, crate wood, or masonite. The numbers may be applied with paint or a dark crayon. The board should be sanded thoroughly and given a coat of shellac or clear varnish.

In this game one player holds the game board upright, with the notched edge against the floor. The second player attempts to roll the three marbles through the arches from a kneeling position three to five feet away from the board. Each time a player succeeds in getting a marble through the arch he scores the number of points marked above it. The first player to score 100 points wins the game.

PROJECT NUMBER 6 PLYWOOD ANIMAL CUT-OUT

This simple plywood cut-out can be cut from a small piece of ¼-inch plywood and is held together by interlocking slots in the body and leg pieces.

After the three pieces have been cut out and sanded properly, the slots should be checked to make sure they are just wide enough to allow the leg pieces to be inserted securely in the underside of the bulldog's body. If necessary, the slots may be trimmed with a wood file. The larger pair of legs is the front legs.

The markings may be added with a dark crayon or wood burner, and the assembled dog figure is given a coat of shellac or clear varnish.

PROJECT NUMBER 7

JIGSAW PUZZLE

A block of ¼-inch plywood is cut to the size of the pattern and sandpapered thoroughly.

The figure may be traced directly on the wood and outlined with crayon, paint, or wood burner. If a crayon is to be used, the block should be given a coat of flat white rubber base paint before the outline is applied.

As an alternative method, an illustration from a magazine or calendar may be cut to the size of the block and fastened to the wood with glue. A protective coat of shellac should then be applied before the pieces of the puzzle are cut out.

The pieces of the puzzle are outlined on the back of the plywood block. The suggested pattern may be modified to give a smaller or larger number of pieces. The picture side of the puzzle should be protected with a square of cardboard or thin crate wood while the pieces are being cut apart. This practice will help to minimize fraying of edges.

PROJECT NUMBER 8

JET AIRPLANE

The wings, tail piece, and body of the jet airplane are cut from a piece of ¼-inch plywood. A ¼-inch slot is cut in each piece so that the plane may be assembled as illustrated. If the slots are cut carefully and accurately, the plane will hold together without nails or glue.

A flat wood file may be used to trim the slots and to sharpen the inside corners. If the pieces do not fit snugly, they may be fastened in place with airplane cement.

Realism may be added by giving this project a coat of aluminum paint.

PROJECT NUMBER 9

RING-JOSS GAME

The figure is cut from a piece of ¼-inch plywood or crate wood. The detail of the face may be added with paint or a dark crayon. A small hole is drilled in the position indicated on the pattern to secure one end of a three-foot piece of string. A rubber fruit-jar ring is tied to the other end of the string. The object of the game is to catch the ring on the nose (or chin) of the plywood figure.

PROJECT NUMBER 10

SUN DIAL

The face of the sun dial is cut from a piece of ¼-inch plywood or crate wood. A slot is cut into the circle at the point indicated on the pattern.

The pointer is a triangular piece of 1/8-inch plywood or thin crate wood. The width of the slot in the face of the sun dial should correspond exactly with the thickness of the pointer. The pointer should be glued in position so that the dotted line at the base is flush with the top surface of the sundial.

The lines and numbers may be drawn on the sun dial with a dark crayon or paint. A coat of shellac or clear varnish is necessary to protect the dial from the weather.

The sun dial should be set outside in a clearing where it will receive a maximum of sunlight. Turn the face of the dial so that the sun's rays cast a shadow across the mark which indicates the correct time of day. If the sundial is left in this position, the shadow cast by the pointer will register the correct time as the sun moves across the sky.

For greater accuracy, the pointer should be adjusted so that it forms an angle with the face of the sun dial that is exactly equal to the latitude of its location.

PROJECT NUMBER 11

JIC-JAC-JOE GAME

The game board is cut from a piece of ½-inch white pine. Each circle on the pattern represents the position of a hole ¼ inch deep and a inch in diameter. The board should be thoroughly sandpapered, and then the markings may be applied with dark crayon, wood burner, or felt marking pencil.

Ten ½-inch pegs of 3/8-inch hard-wood dowel are used to record the moves of the game. The pegs are sandpapered to fit the holes in the game board. Five of the pegs are marked by placing an "X" on each end. The five remaining pegs are identified with an "O" in the same manner. A very thin coat of shellac or clear varnish is recommended to protect the wood and preserve the markings.

To start the game, each player places his pegs in the holes provided along the edge of the game board. The first player places a peg in one of the squares. His opponent then places one of his pegs in a vacant square. The object of the game is to get three of one player's pegs to form a straight line in any direction.

PROJECT NUMBER 12

KEY HOLDER

The octopus pattern is traced on a ½-inch white-pine board which has been cut to the proper dimensions. The figure may be outlined with paint, dark crayon, or wood burner. A hole may be drilled in the top of the board so that the key holder can be hung on the wall.

A hook similar to the one pictured at the bottom of the opposite page is then screwed into the end of each tentacle.

The completed key holder should be given a coat of shellac or clear varnish.

 

PROJECT NUMBER 13

LETTER “T” PUZZLE

The pieces for the "T" puzzle may be cut from any thin wood, such as ¼-inch plywood, crate wood, or masonite. All cuts should be made as straight as possible so that the shape of the pieces will not give away the solution to the puzzle.

The pieces may be sandpapered and given a finishing coat of shellac, oil stain, or paint.

PROJECT NUMBER 14

NAPKIN RING

Any of these napkin ring patterns may be cut from ½-inch or ¾-inch white pine or plywood.

The hole for the napkin should be drilled or sawed out before cutting around the outside of the napkin ring. If a drill with large bits is not available, the hole may be cut out with a coping saw as follows: One end of the coping saw blade is disengaged from the frame and threaded through a small hole prepared in the center of the area to be removed. Then the saw is reassembled and the circular cut is made. The coping saw is then removed in the same manner.

The markings on these napkin rings may be applied with dark crayon or paint, followed by a coat of shellac or clear varnish.

PROJECT NUMBER 15

B-B PUZZLE

The B-B puzzle consists of a block of plywood on which an animal figure has been traced with a series of holes for six B-Bs. The block is then sealed to the inside bottom of a cardboard box with a clear plastic cover. The object is to roll one B-B into each of the holes in the animal figure.

The figure is traced on a ¼-inch plywood block, and holes are drilled halfway into the block at the points indicated on the pattern. If the edges of the holes are rough, they should be smoothed with sandpaper.

The pattern for the cardboard container is on the bottom half of the page. A piece of noncorrugated cardboard is cut to the size indicated. Cuts are made along each of the four dotted lines, and the solid lines are folded as illustrated in the drawing in the upper righthand corner of the page. The corner tabs may be stapled or glued to the side of the box.

A three-inch square of clear plastic of the type used in various display boxes serves as the top of the puzzle box. Six B-Bs are placed inside the box, and the plastic square is fastened over the top with cellophane tape.

PROJECT NUMBER 16

MOBILE

Here is a musical mobile which you can make from thin plywood and a few lengths of ¼- or 1/8-inch dowel.

The patterns on the opposite page may be traced on scraps of ¼-inch plywood or ¼-inch plywood and cut out. A small hole or tack should be placed in the top of each "instrument" to make it possible to hang it on the mobile. The markings may be applied to both sides of the plywood with a dark crayon or India ink. A coat of clear varnish or shellac protects the surface.

Four 12-inch lengths of 1/8-inch dowel are arranged as pictured in the drawing above, and connected with pieces of heavy black thread. The plywood instruments are fastened to the dowel rods in the same manner. After the mobile has been assembled as directed, it should be hung up so that the instruments may be balanced by adjusting the threads on the dowel rods.

PROJECT NUMBER 17

RECIPE CARD HOLDER

This gadget is designed to hold a recipe card at the proper angle so that it may be referred to while both hands are occupied in baking.

The base is a wooden block in which a hole has been drilled at the proper angle to receive a 3/8-inch dowel, as indicated on the pattern.

The 3/8-inch dowel is cut to the proper length, and a hole for a peg 1/8 inch in diameter is prepared in one end. The peg is a piece of 1/8-inch dowel cut to the length indicated on the pattern.

A spring-type clothespin is used to clamp the recipe card. A 1/8-inch hole is drilled halfway through the clothespin at the point indicated on the pattern and at a slight angle as shown.

The recipe card holder is fastened together with glue.
PROJECT NUMBER 18

FINGER PUPPETS

The pattern for the finger puppet should be traced on a piece of 1/8-inch plywood, masonite, or crate wood. The finger holes should be drilled before the puppet is cut out to avoid splitting. If a bit of the proper size is not available, a small hole may be enlarged with a rat-tail file. The holes should be large enough to permit the first and second fingers to be extended halfway through.

After the puppet is cut out, the edges are sanded thoroughly, including the inside of the holes for the fingers. Then the markings may be added with paint, India ink, or a dark crayon. A final coat of shellac or clear varnish will help to preserve the wood. As an alternative, the puppet may be painted with tempera paints.

PROJECT NUMBER 19

HANGING WALL SHELF

This hanging wall shelf consists of two pieces of ¼-inch plywood suspended by a piece of white cotton clothesline. The two shelves are cut from the pattern on the opposite page, and ¼-inch holes are drilled in each corner.

The shelves may be oil-stained, varnished, or given a coat of rubber base paint before they are assembled.

Approximately six feet of clothesline will be required to suspend the shelves. The bottom shelf is supported by a loop of the cord passing across the underside at each end of the board. The top shelf is supported by four knots tied in the cord. The shelves are assembled as pictured above, leaving approximately six inches between the top and bottom shelves. The two free ends of the cord are tied in a bow at the top. The knots which support the top shelf should not be pulled tight so that they may be adjusted when the shelf is hung on the wall.

PROJECT NUMBER 20

CHRISTMAS CARD TREE

This Christmas card tree, made of ¼-inch plywood, provides a novel way to display colorful greeting cards. The pattern for the two pieces is formed by joining tracings of the lower and upper portions of the tree. The lower part of the pattern is outlined on this page; the upper portion, on the opposite page.

The slot which divides the pattern is prepared in two parts as illustrated at the top of the next page. One piece is cut with a slot extending through the top portion only, simulating the drawing in the upper lefthand corner. The second piece is prepared with the slot extending into the bottom section only, as shown in the sketch in the upper righthand corner. The slots should be trimmed with a wood file until the two sections will fit together as illustrated in the drawing above.

The short dotted lines spaced evenly along the sides of the pattern mark the positions of saw cuts in which the greeting cards will be inserted. The two sections of the tree may be finished with a coat of green oil stain.

PROJECT NUMBER 21

CANDLESTICK

The large hexagon and star which form the base of the candlestick are cut
from ¼-inch plywood or crate wood. The smaller hexagonal block which holds the candle is cut from ¾-inch pine or other soft wood. The hole, which is 7/8 inch in diameter, should be drilled before the hexagon is cut out so that there is less danger of the block splitting when the hole is prepared.

The three parts of the candlestick are fastened together with wood glue. The completed project may be given a coat of oil stain or varnish.

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